I've never met a landscape I didn't love. The moment I say that, I think of the central plains of Florida, which are flat and whose green is never breathless or vibrant or new. But other than that, I've never met a landscape I didn't love. Our drive down to South Dakota for a vacation in the Black Hills and Bad Lands confirmed that fact once again. A lot of what one drives through is prairie, but it is prairie that continues to change, often subtly, as ploughed fields with their fuzz of new crop give way to the more rolling hills of mustard and cattle. This is a very green year, all the way from Regina down to South Dakota, so the green hills feed your eyes and your mind in some ineffable way. But punctuating those subtle changes are formations like the one above, which seem to rise up out of the peaceful green to taunt one's confident knowledge of prairie. If I know anything, having spent 7 days looking at what happens in the middle of prairies, it's that I need to read Candace Savage's book, Prairie: A Natural History.
The Black Hills and the Bad Lands fifty miles away are an area of enormous and complicated activity in the inland sea that the prairie comes out of. The Black Hills contain many different kinds of geological activity arranged like a donut that got squeezed in the box and is now more like an oval than a circle. In the outer areas, uplift has created mountains made of rock over 2 million years old. You can see the striations from the sediment of the old seas that flooded the prairie from time to time, but they are now at improbable angles where the uplift thrust them up into mountains. The photograph above was taken from the edge of one of these, and you can see both how high up I am and how the foothills go on for mile upon blue mile.
Closer to the centre of the donut is volcanic activity that gave rise to enormous formations that seem to rise out of the earth.
Bill did the best job of articulating the effect of this landscape on us. Its immensity and age dwarf us. In the context of rock that is over two billion years old, our lives are but an errant thought that whisks through your mind in a traffic jam and is now gone. Looking at the world from the top of Harney's Peak (over 7,000 feet high) makes clear how tiny we all are. It is a landscape that brings perspective to bear, even as its beauty and grandeur and even whimsicality delight. Yes, the formations here are huge and ancient, but the tiny violet that manages to survive in the sediment that has gathered on a horizontal rock also surprises with its unpredictable beauty.
In the malls that ring Rapid City, we found a kind of independent, truck-drivin', gun-totin' culture that had given over many of its stores to the vacationer's hunger for souvenirs. Downtown, however, you find something altogether different. There's a wonderful bookstore, the Hotel Alex Johnson, which combines German architecture with Native motifs and which was featured in Hitchcock's North by Northwest and which has hosted many presidents. There is the Dahl Arts Centre, which featured the colourful, expressionistic paintings of animals by Tom Thorson--paintings that are entirely unsentimental, that give the animals energy and lives so entirely unlike our own. There was an exhibition of photographs by Chris Benson (with Annie Woodle and Leah Diggins) called Inspire: The Project. It featured spirited, candid photographs of young people who had come through tough times of abuse, of parents whose alcohol and drug use made their lives chaotic and painful, kids whose appearance or sexuality gave rise to bullying. The photographs were accompanied by panels with each of the kids' stories: stories of creativity and self-discovery and determination. Many of them found their way out of despair through self-expression, music, or sport; through Alcoholics Anonymous or a great teacher. They are all a testament to human resilience, ingenuity, and determination.
I had an odd experience at the border: the Customs guy welcomed me home. For some reason, his words set up both a curiosity and a distancing attitude. What, exactly, is different when you cross an arbitrary boundary in something as immense and yet varied as the prairies? I suspect that when many of us go on holidays, we look for those differences and quickly draw conclusions about them. We do this for two reasons: other cultures and their practices, other landscapes and urban environments are chaotic, and we want the sense of order that helps us negotiate this foreignness. As well, we go with a desire for the unfamiliar that will shake us up a bit and give us a new perspective.
But I suspect we come to conclusions way too quickly. I have been reading Joseph Heath's Enlightenment 2.0, where he talks about the latest research into how human beings "do" rationality (which is not very well). Analogous to Kahneman's System One and System Two styles of thinking, Heath observes that we have an "old" brain that evolved to draw conclusions that would have once been crucial to our survival. One of these is the tendency to find patterns. If a berry makes you sick twice, you quickly come to the conclusion that it's poisonous, which means that when someone in your tribe offers you a nice slice of berry pie you will give it a miss and survive, unlike the less well-experienced and pattern-perceiving people in your community. You'll have recognized this tendency in the way you see a pattern in someone's treatment of you or in the kinds of stories you are seeing in the news and will draw a brilliant but hasty conclusion of what this all means--only to find out that what you have observed is really pretty random and means nothing at all or something entirely different than your astute conclusions. What Heath says we do too seldom is to ask "the negative." What if what I'm seeing isn't really there? What if it doesn't explain everything or if I'm asking it to explain too much? What if there's evidence I don't know about?
I suspect this way of thinking kicks into high gear when we visit unfamiliar places, partly because unfamiliarity overwhelms us and we need the comfort from having mastered it, from having frog-marched it into our conclusions about how this culture works. I'd done exactly that until I went down town and saw a different Rapid City, one with a Gay Pride Week, a mayor with a committee devoted to accessibility, the art gallery and the book store.
Still, that "welcome home" was a burr under my saddle, as it were. And I knew Canadians and Americans were fundamentally different on my last night there when Bill and I were stopped at a light that gave us a full view of one of those big electronic billboards. There was the face of a plainly Native man (I'm using the American vocabulary here; it's probably politically incorrect) with the words, in capitals "DO NOT APPROACH" and the local sheriff's phone number. Fortunately, we sat through three more lights (the left-turn light was very short and it was rush hour) and between the ads for realtors and pubs, I glimpsed the faces of two more people--a white man and a woman, just to show that crime is equal opportunity in South Dakota. Still, there was something rather "wild west" about the billboard and the sheriff's phone number.
Later that evening, we strolled down the Main Street, where Rapid City organizes two different concerts every summer Thursday night. At one end of the street there's a rock concert set up on a stage in the intersection. Farther down at Main Street Square there's a jazz band or a Beach Boys tribute. In between are places for the kids to get their faces painted or to do crafts or grab a hot dog, or places for parents to grab a beer (though there are also alcohol-free zones). It's a pretty impressive undertaking for a city of under 60,000. That night, we heard The Glenn Miller Orchestra under its current director Nick Hilscher (Miller having disappeared and presumably died in 1944). There were places near the stage for people to dance, and though the best dancers were well over sixty, they weren't the only ones dancing. The audience was wonderfully varied, and as I looked across at all those faces, faces that had brought their lawn chairs out to cover an entire city block, I wondered how I could have drawn all those clever conclusions. Maybe at that moment when I recognized how complicated and even contradictory the culture around Rapid City was, like any culture, I could go home. My holiday had done its work.